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HOMEOWNER'S SURVIVAL GUIDE What is Defensible Space? The Law(NEW CHANGE- 100' defensible space is now recommended for your home!) No one imagines that his or her home will ever be destroyed by fire. Of course, we realize this might happen to someone else, but never to us. You should become aware of the level of fire hazard where you live. Hazards are rated as extreme, high, or moderate. You can check with your local fire authority to see how your neighborhood is rated. The higher the hazard, the greater the risk to your house, and the more you need to do to ensure survival from an approaching wildfire. To defend your property, firefighters need to reach your house with their equipment and have adequate space to operate in. You should have your local fire authority inspect to point out where you can improve their ability to defend your house. Keep in mind the vulnerable parts of houses -- roofing, vents, windows, nooks and crannies, and under floor areas -- when assessing fire hazards. Some "quick fixes" are fairly inexpensive and easily accomplished: Plants in and around your home should be well maintained, free of debris and "fire-safe." No trees should have branches within 6 feet of your roof—cut the branches or remove the tree if necessary. Create islands of vegetation (a "fuel mosaic") so that fire does not have a path to your house. Be careful of using a lot of landscaping bark and mulch—this could cause smoldering of embers. Annual grasses are a major hazard in the fall when they cure, especially if you have grasses on a slope leading up to your house. Cut these grasses or get them grazed before they die! The area within 6 feet of your house is especially hazardous—do not store firewood and other combustibles within this zone, especially under decks. Keep barbecue propane tanks as far away from the house as possible. Clean your gutters regularly or cover your gutters with metal screening. If you have a chimney, be sure that it has an approved spark arrester. Metallic screens provide protection to windows from radiant energy from fires and some protection against wind-blown debris. Then plan long-term actions to make your home fire-safe: Roof: Perhaps the greatest threat to your house is a combustible roof covering, or openings in the coverings. Check to see what your roofing type is (roofs are rated A, B, or C, depending on the roofing material and overall construction). If in doubt, ask your local fire authority or check your house construction permit on file. Re-landscaping: If you have a down slope from your house with annual grasses/weeds, think about a low-form, fire-resistant, drought-resistant plant. This may take a few years to fully develop (with watering in the first year or so), but it can serve as a significant barrier to spread of fire. Trees don't have to be a problem as long as they're some distance from the house (6 feet for the closest branches), so trim back what you can, but begin a removal/replacement program. A good choice for a tree in California is a deciduous one, especially on the south side of your house. It will provide shade in the summer and lose its leaves before the fire weather. Also, as pointed out earlier, don't have large bushes under any trees. They act as “ladder fuels” to provide an easy route for spreading flames. Spacing between shrubbery, with materials like grass or gravel, will provide a firebreak. Create a mosaic of green islands instead of large clumps of vegetation. The gaps should be greater as you approach the house Windows: Windows are a major point of fire's entry. High radiant energy from an approaching fire can fracture glass (untempered glass will expand much more than the frames and break); there are also reports of ignition of the materials inside of the house (such as drapes) from radiation through windows. Remove any combustibles (including large plants) from beneath first-floor windows. The safest approach is to have low-form plants under windows. Protect the windows by using shutters to act as a barrier or modify the windows by installing tempered glass. Single pane should be replaced with double glazed, especially on the first floor on the side of the house from which a fire would most logically approach. Vents: There are many types of vents that are located in soffits, roofs ("eyebrow" vents), tops of roofs (ridge vents), top ends of walls (gable vents), and crawl spaces. Soffit vents are most vulnerable to fire. Your soffits should be either a non-combustible material, such as a fiber cement product, or 3/4" plywood without joints over the surface area. Do not block these vents without having additional adequate vents added. Building code requires a minimum venting that is barely adequate for most houses. Reducing the venting can lead to serious potential decay damage from accumulation of condensation in the attic area. Ask a contractor about your options and be sure to remove large plants located directly below soffit vents. Siding: Most sidings, except for stucco, are combustible. Make sure there are no combustibles at the base, that there are no openings in the siding, and that the siding is thick enough (3/4") that it is unlikely to burn through into the wall cavity. Stucco walls are fine as long as the stucco is about 7/8" thick and has sheathing beneath it. After performing the Quick Fixes and some of the Long-Term actions, you should complete... Pre-fire planning to be ready if a fire threatens your house: Keep your lot fire-safe. Precut covers for soffit and frieze-block vents, first floor windows and glass doors. Make a list of places where water is or can be stored. Make a list of items to assemble in the event of an evacuation. Survey the attic to see how well you can inspect it to locate embers during a fire. Make sure you have a carrier for your pets. Consider a self-powered water pump that could be used for hoses and yard sprinklers. Obtain a portable spray tank. Make sure you have a wet mop or burlap bags that can be used to put out brands. Assemble protective clothing -- gloves, boots, coveralls, hat, and goggles. Store 2 ladders -- one for attic access, one for roof access. Assemble an emergency kit with the following, a list of all fire protection materials, flashlight and spare batteries, several screwdrivers for attaching covers, battery powered radio, telephone numbers for relatives, attic survey map, face masks to filter smoke particulate. When a wildfire is reported: Evacuate any children, elderly, or disabled persons long before the fire arrives, preferably at the first indication that a fire is anywhere near your area. Place blankets and water in car for evacuation and determine alternate routes to leave. If you have pre-cut materials ready for windows and vents, attach them with nails or screws. Plug your downspouts with socks (or something similar) filled with sand or dirt, and fill your gutters with water. Remove all materials on your decks, porches, or landings. Make sure that your "water reservoirs" and portable tanks are filled, and have mops and hoses readied, although you should keep these inside. Remove any inside window coverings such as drapes or furniture that might catch on fire from radiation through the windows or after window breakage. Check your emergency kit and supplies (hoses, ladders, etc) and leave in a convenient place. Gather your protective clothing. Have your hose connected to your supply and under pressure. Have your roof ladder ready to go; set up your attic ladder to allow easy entry to the attic. Survey the outside to make sure that everything is in readiness. What about staying during a fire? If you have done everything listed above in preparation, and consulted with local fire authorities, you have an excellent opportunity to save your home, but you must be prepared for an emotionally draining experience. Strange as it may sound, the best way to ensure your home survives a wildfire is by staying in place, as long as you have properly prepared yourself in advance. This approach first gained prominence during Australia's infamous Ash Wednesday Fire, and has been verified in subsequent research. This Australian concept of staying with your home is called “shelter-in-place”. Here in California, this concept is often termed “safe-to-stay” by its advocates. The application of this concept would only be effective if the rules and recommendations for ignition-resistant structures and vegetation clearance and maintenance have been adhered to; the homeowner prepares and is trained effectively; and the fire authority recognizes the potential of the homeowner involvement. The fire command must recognize the citizen’s right to stay, and support that effort before the fire with training and education. The ultimate decision to retreat from a deteriorating situation must come from the Incident Commander. Information about citizen firefighters should be relayed to law enforcement agencies to reduce conflict at roadblocks. Experience in other parts of the world has shown that prepared and able-bodied residents can cope with wildfire that threatens houses.

Working to protect our communities and preserve our resources

HOMEOWNER'S SURVIVAL GUIDE

What is Defensible Space?

The Law(NEW CHANGE- 100' defensible space is now recommended for your home!)

No one imagines that his or her home will ever be destroyed by fire. Of course, we realize this might happen to someone else, but never to us.

You should become aware of the level of fire hazard where you live. Hazards are rated as extreme, high, or moderate. You can check with your local fire authority to see how your neighborhood is rated. The higher the hazard, the greater the risk to your house, and the more you need to do to ensure survival from an approaching wildfire.

To defend your property, firefighters need to reach your house with their equipment and have adequate space to operate in. You should have your local fire authority inspect to point out where you can improve their ability to defend your house.

Keep in mind the vulnerable parts of houses -- roofing, vents, windows, nooks and crannies, and under floor areas -- when assessing fire hazards. Some "quick fixes" are fairly inexpensive and easily accomplished:

Plants in and around your home should be well maintained, free of debris and "fire-safe."

No trees should have branches within 6 feet of your roof—cut the branches or remove the tree if necessary.

Create islands of vegetation (a "fuel mosaic") so that fire does not have a path to your house.

Be careful of using a lot of landscaping bark and mulch—this could cause smoldering of embers.

Annual grasses are a major hazard in the fall when they cure, especially if you have grasses on a slope leading up to your house. Cut these grasses or get them grazed before they die!

The area within 6 feet of your house is especially hazardous—do not store firewood and other combustibles within this zone, especially under decks.

Keep barbecue propane tanks as far away from the house as possible.

Clean your gutters regularly or cover your gutters with metal screening.

If you have a chimney, be sure that it has an approved spark arrester.

Metallic screens provide protection to windows from radiant energy from fires and some protection against wind-blown debris.

Then plan long-term actions to make your home fire-safe:

Roof: Perhaps the greatest threat to your house is a combustible roof covering, or openings in the coverings. Check to see what your roofing type is (roofs are rated A, B, or C, depending on the roofing material and overall construction). If in doubt, ask your local fire authority or check your house construction permit on file.

Re-landscaping: If you have a down slope from your house with annual grasses/weeds, think about a low-form, fire-resistant, drought-resistant plant. This may take a few years to fully develop (with watering in the first year or so), but it can serve as a significant barrier to spread of fire. Trees don't have to be a problem as long as they're some distance from the house (6 feet for the closest branches), so trim back what you can, but begin a removal/replacement program. A good choice for a tree in California is a deciduous one, especially on the south side of your house. It will provide shade in the summer and lose its leaves before the fire weather. Also, as pointed out earlier, don't have large bushes under any trees. They act as “ladder fuels” to provide an easy route for spreading flames. Spacing between shrubbery, with materials like grass or gravel, will provide a firebreak. Create a mosaic of green islands instead of large clumps of vegetation. The gaps should be greater as you approach the house

Windows: Windows are a major point of fire's entry. High radiant energy from an approaching fire can fracture glass (untempered glass will expand much more than the frames and break); there are also reports of ignition of the materials inside of the house (such as drapes) from radiation through windows. Remove any combustibles (including large plants) from beneath first-floor windows. The safest approach is to have low-form plants under windows. Protect the windows by using shutters to act as a barrier or modify the windows by installing tempered glass. Single pane should be replaced with double glazed, especially on the first floor on the side of the house from which a fire would most logically approach.

Vents: There are many types of vents that are located in soffits, roofs ("eyebrow" vents), tops of roofs (ridge vents), top ends of walls (gable vents), and crawl spaces. Soffit vents are most vulnerable to fire. Your soffits should be either a non-combustible material, such as a fiber cement product, or 3/4" plywood without joints over the surface area. Do not block these vents without having additional adequate vents added. Building code requires a minimum venting that is barely adequate for most houses. Reducing the venting can lead to serious potential decay damage from accumulation of condensation in the attic area. Ask a contractor about your options and be sure to remove large plants located directly below soffit vents.

Siding: Most sidings, except for stucco, are combustible. Make sure there are no combustibles at the base, that there are no openings in the siding, and that the siding is thick enough (3/4") that it is unlikely to burn through into the wall cavity. Stucco walls are fine as long as the stucco is about 7/8" thick and has sheathing beneath it.

After performing the Quick Fixes and some of the Long-Term actions, you should complete...

Pre-fire planning to be ready if a fire threatens your house:

Keep your lot fire-safe.

Precut covers for soffit and frieze-block vents, first floor windows and glass doors.

Make a list of places where water is or can be stored.

Make a list of items to assemble in the event of an evacuation.

Survey the attic to see how well you can inspect it to locate embers during a fire.

Make sure you have a carrier for your pets.

Consider a self-powered water pump that could be used for hoses and yard sprinklers.

Obtain a portable spray tank.

Make sure you have a wet mop or burlap bags that can be used to put out brands.

Assemble protective clothing -- gloves, boots, coveralls, hat, and goggles.

Store 2 ladders -- one for attic access, one for roof access.

Assemble an emergency kit with the following, a list of all fire protection materials, flashlight and spare batteries, several screwdrivers for attaching covers, battery powered radio, telephone numbers for relatives, attic survey map, face masks to filter smoke particulate.

When a wildfire is reported:

Evacuate any children, elderly, or disabled persons long before the fire arrives, preferably at the first indication that a fire is anywhere near your area.

Place blankets and water in car for evacuation and determine alternate routes to leave.

If you have pre-cut materials ready for windows and vents, attach them with nails or screws.

Plug your downspouts with socks (or something similar) filled with sand or dirt, and fill your gutters with water.

Remove all materials on your decks, porches, or landings.

Make sure that your "water reservoirs" and portable tanks are filled, and have mops and hoses readied, although you should keep these inside.

Remove any inside window coverings such as drapes or furniture that might catch on fire from radiation through the windows or after window breakage.

Check your emergency kit and supplies (hoses, ladders, etc) and leave in a convenient place.

Gather your protective clothing.

Have your hose connected to your supply and under pressure.

Have your roof ladder ready to go; set up your attic ladder to allow easy entry to the attic.

Survey the outside to make sure that everything is in readiness.

What about staying during a fire?

If you have done everything listed above in preparation, and consulted with local fire authorities, you have an excellent opportunity to save your home, but you must be prepared for an emotionally draining experience. Strange as it may sound, the best way to ensure your home survives a wildfire is by staying in place, as long as you have properly prepared yourself in advance. This approach first gained prominence during Australia's infamous Ash Wednesday Fire, and has been verified in subsequent research.

This Australian concept of staying with your home is called “shelter-in-place”. Here in California, this concept is often termed “safe-to-stay” by its advocates. The application of this concept would only be effective if the rules and recommendations for ignition-resistant structures and vegetation clearance and maintenance have been adhered to; the homeowner prepares and is trained effectively; and the fire authority recognizes the potential of the homeowner involvement.

The fire command must recognize the citizen’s right to stay, and support that effort before the fire with training and education. The ultimate decision to retreat from a deteriorating situation must come from the Incident Commander. Information about citizen firefighters should be relayed to law enforcement agencies to reduce conflict at roadblocks. Experience in other parts of the world has shown that prepared and able-bodied residents can cope with wildfire that threatens houses.

Placer County Fire Safe Alliance